customer requested PM check, Cleaned door glass, dispenser, door boot drain holes, and drain filter.Ran test cycle all functions ok no leaks. Instructed customer on maintenance of front load washer

Found that igniter is not getting power. Found that the oven thermostat is bad and not sending power to igniter. Called owner with estimate and they will think about it and call back if they want to proceed.

Upon arrival opened up the machine and discovered that the icemaker filled tube was frozen. Remove the icemaker and replaced with new part. Provided by warranty for recall. Defrosted the field tube and tested. Machine seems to be working properly.

Customer has two different issues with the dryer. The main issue is not heating. Found that my temp for only going up to about 100?. Unit is igniting the gas then will shut off right away because its getting too hot down by the heater. Unhooked the vent and unit started heating properly without any issues. Explain to customer they need to get the dryer vent cleaned it goes out the rough and they need to hire a company that will actually go on the roof to do it. Explain we will not warranty, any parts or labor until that gets fixed properly if they do not get it fixed and continue to use the dryer and blow a fuse or thermostat that will be not covered. The second issue is loud noise during operation. Disassembled found that one of the rollers was completely gone. Another one was stiff and the idler was going bad. Install new repair kit. Once it was installed tested unit unit is now running normal with the dryer vent unhooked; used 1 DESAMKIT (DRYER REBUILD KIT) from stock

customer states not draining, 120vac to drain motor and not running, replaced motor and tested, unit now draining ; used 1 A00126401 (Drain motor) from stock

Complaint is unit not draining all the way and water still being inside unit when it says its finished. Put unit in test mode checked for any error codes. No error codes are present. filled unit multiple times and drain. Found that the drain is slow. Found that they have at the end of the drain holes a lint trap. Also, it drains into the wash tub. The wash tub is backing up with water so once its backed up it clogs and doesnt drain. customer needs to get a new lint trap and get the sink cleaned properly and cleared. No parts were used because the unit itself is running properly.

Returned and installed the valve assembly, informed the customer this would happen again if the water was not filtered before going into the refrigerator.

Installed new infinite switch! Fixed issue tested great! Done

Customer stated the washer was leaking out the back. Pulled the unit out and found the drain hose not hooked up correctly. Hooked up cycled and checked for leaks. Unit is working as it should.

Arrived on site found bad connection on door switch preventing motor operation all tests good

Found that flame sensor is bad and not sending power to igniter. Also belt and rollers are worn. Customer approved estimate. Replaced sensor and belt, idler, rollers. Tested and dryer is heating and working good.; used 1 5303281135 (GLOW IGNITER & SENSOR), and 1 4392065 (REBUILD KIT) from stock

Upon inspection of the washer, it was engaging cycles when it shouldnt and not filling so I ordered a main board and pressure switch to fix the problem. Installed both pressure switch and main board . Showed customer that it is working. Also showed him a feature on this model . Such as spin and drain . Done; pckd up 1 203843 (Pressure switch) and 1 204659P (Drive board)

Replaced door gasket and tested unit for leaks. Got no leaks. Good to go

Found one of the connections to the bake element wasnt hooked on so bake element wasnt running. Reconnected and tested. Good to go

Replaced sump and motor assembly, tested unit all functions ok no leaks. Unit now washing

Customer says its taking 3- cycles to dry clothes. I tested dryer and found that heat inside dryer spiked to 230 quickly and then heat shut off. Disconnected dryer vent, tested and heat is cycling normally up to 180 degrees and cycling heat normally.I replaced gas coils. But main problem is dryer vent is clogged and needs to be cleaned.House is a townhome and vent goes up through the roof.Dryer mechanically is working good.

No ice production- replaced wiring, harness and fan in ice room per service bulletin from Frigidaire troubleshooting support all functions test. Good fan is now on operating.

Unit had no leaks anywhere from any of the components . Double and triple checked ! Unit had a lot of suds even after 3 cycles I tried to run to get it to leak. Advised to use less detergent and I cleaned unit out of the suds .customer to return inlet valve that was not used or needed

The customer was experiencing an error code referring to the Aqua Sensor problem.The toe kick was removed, I was able to access the bottom of the dishwasher to check for a water leak producing the error code. The circulation motor is water tight, no leaks when washing or draining. The water supply line and valve are free from defects or leaks, so is the drain line. The customer adjusted the height of the appliance, the adjustment allowed relief between the bottom of the dishwasher and the water supply line, the water supply line was distorting the plan underneath the aqua sensor and tricking the aqua sensor into thinking there was a leak.

I installed the compressor, condenser coil, filter drier and a low side service valve. Brazed in to hold at vacuum pressure.I pulled a deep vacuum, multiple evaporators required extended time window. Once I had achieved a deep vacuum, I charged the sealed system with 6.17 ounces of r134a refrigerant. The refrigerator system charge went perfectly, the high and low sides looked perfect post charging. I told the customers that their refrigerator will take 24 hours to reach set temperatures.

Customer stated freezer door not sealing up, frost building up. Found freezer drawer out of plumb and gasket not fully installed in the middle at the bottom. Corrected door and gasket, removed ice from freezer. Verify drawer closes properly again. Informed customer.

Customer stating and showed me that the ice has white sediment coming from it as it melts in glass of water. I explained that it is hard water/calcium build up and during the freezing process it binds together and when ice melts it shows the white flakes more prevalent.Customer states that it didnt do it before.I ran glass of tap water from water dispenser and it is clear and I explained that the water is from the same source and that its just the freezing process is the cause.I explained that there is nothing i can replace that will change the result unless customer gets a really good water filtration system for the water that goes to the refrigerator.Customer will use tap water and use ice trays and see if there is sediment in the ice compared to the ice maker ice.

Found that evaporator drain was likly clogged with gunk/debris, customer had cleaned it before I got here but by that point the evaporator drain had frozen over. Defrosted drain, it is now draining into drip pan and no longer leaking onto the bottom of freezer. Refrigerator is working good.

Washer wont complete cycle and still has water inside. Getting E41 error. Door lock. Checked door lock and it is open. Bad door lock. Customer approved estimate. Replaced door lock, tested and washer fills, agitates, drains and spins. Washer is working good.; used 1 131763256 (DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY) from stock

Oven not heating. Found the spark igniter was bent away from the burner assembly. I adjusted it so that its parallel to the burner and tried it, now ignites great.

Bulb broke in socket of oven. Bottom of old bulb stripped and stuck in socket. Removed broken part after some work with various tools. Replaced bulb. Works great now. ; pckd up 1 X0049APHE7 (Bulb)

customer states unit not heating, found igniter not glowing rxing 120vac and not glowing. Replaced oven igniter and tested, unit now heating.; used 1 5303935066 (IGNITER) from stock

customer states H20 error, entered diag mode through BT device, found no fill and no drain errors, in test cycle unit filling and draining ok, inspected pressure/water level sensor and found it full of brown sludge. Replaced sensor, updated software and ran test cycle, all functions ok no leaks; used 1 WD21X25468 (SWITCH, WATER LEVEL CONTROL) from stock

Replaced condenser fan motor and fan blade. Replaced craft ice maker and main board. Refrigerator turns on and is cooling. Tested craft ice maker and it cycles and fills. Refrigerator is working good.

Complaint is that unit will not fill. Tested Fill valve and pressure switch operation. Both are working perfectly. Unit is filling correctly.; (serial indicated as 'NotAvailable' so system created UIS w/pseudo #)

Complaint is that unit is not functioning, no lights or heating. Found pulled unit from wall and found that cavity tco had shorted out melting tco and portion of wiring harness. Replaced tco and repaired wiring harness. Unit is now operating properly.

Ran unit for 25 minutes on normal and heave wash, unable to duplicate leak, observed oversudzing in wash tub and garbage disposal drain for dishwasher backs up into sink, advised client how to add rinse aid and detergent type and to check drain on sink on garbage disposal side

Ran calibration of oven and found that it is running about 25 degrees cooler than set temperature on average. I went into system of oven and changed settings 25 degrees hotter.Range is heating and working good.

DRYER IS SQUEAKY ON COLD START UP. Found the dryer is loud. I disassembled dryer and found the rear bearing is wore and grinding and the belt is cracked. Installed dryer repair kit and tested. Dryer sounds great. Dryer is now fixed.

MAKING HUMMING NOISES. The noise I hear sounds like a vibration noise from behind refrigerator. I pulled refrigerator out and inspected compressor, condenser fan and they looked and sounded good. I cleaned the coils and compressor compartment and reassembled. When I adjust the legs in the front to wear they were before, the noise comes back. I pulled refrigerator out a little and didnt adjust the front up so high and it sounds good now. I showed this to the customer and he was good with me leaving it like this.

Replaced FF thermostat, set to setting 7 and instructed customer to raise temp if after 24hrs items are freezing in fridge

Returned installed the new sensors, cycled and tested

Customer states the oven dont work as it should , found the ignitor was not working as it should, customer approved new igniter installed cycled and tested the oven is now working as it should.; used 1 4342528 (ROUND OVEN IGNITER) from stock

Arrived on site found dryer making very loud noise with drum trouble spinning discovered blower housing has come out and lodged against the front cover assembly this cover is come off for me to access the drum in the blower tried at length to free it from the blower failure caused mechanical block that prevent disassembly

Arrived on site no heat and dryer after further troubleshooting found open high limit on heat vent ordered high limit replaced high limit all heat functions test good

Complaint is of poor drying. Found on arrival unit was on normal eco mode. Advised customer to use time dry as it provides the best drying experience. Tested sensor and airflow. Sensor tested good, exit vent is on roof so air speed could not be tested but seemed good based on suction inside unit.

Installed the new part from last diagnosis. Once installed tested unit is working properly

Issue is water just keeps coming in from the steam nozzle. Found that the water valve is stuck open. Its not getting power to it. It is just stuck. Hold the blue book for replacement. Or bypassing the water valve by removing water supply to the unit. Customer was OK with just removing the water hose from the dryer. Because they didnt use that feature very often.

customer states unit not draining, found unit in the middle of an auto cycle 1:20 on display and customer had sucked water out w shop vac. Entered tested mode no errors stored, ran test cycle all functions ok no leaks, Suspect door was opened and cycle was never resumed or intermittent issue with door latch, Door latch tested ok during visit, instructed customer to continue to use unit and be mindful of when cycle is paused/door opened to restart unit on control. customer will take notes on what display says/machine is doing if issue recurs

Upon inspection drain pump tested bad . Replaced it with truck stock part! Fixed issue! Done no leaks double and triple checked; used 1 4681EA2001D (DRAIN PUMP ASSM - MOTOR SOLD SEPARATELY) from stock

Leveled fridge doors and tested closing operation. Good to go

Upon inspection upper oven both bake and broil are working ! I advised inconsistent heat would be a sensor issue. I replaced sensor with truck stock. He didnt want the specific one because the cost of it was to much. I told him I could make one work that I had in truck stock. So I cut and spliced with heat shrinks around connections so it was proper. Tested unit working great! Tested unit to verify it was working ! Done working great!!; used 1 WPW10131825 (SENSOR - OVEN) from stock

Unit was stuck on control lock. I was able to unlock and test to see if panel and microwave were working correctly. Set clock done like dinner!

Installed both board and heat probe ! Tested unit! Made sure it was heating properly ! I took the time to show customer its working and even let her put cookies in the oven to show her.

Unit had a bad user interface. Replaced UI board fixed issue! Done like dinner; used 1 EBR89296402 (CONTROL BOARD - MAIN, ERC, UI, ETC) from stock

Swapped door. Checked for any damages. No damage. Unit is now perfect.

Upon inspection I tried my best I level it but this unit doesnt have leveling legs. So I advised you can shim it. Or put boards in the front! Unit is good to go!

WILL NOT WASH. Washer is not switching to agitate from spin, its stuck in spin mode. I tipped washer back and found the actuator arm is not connected to the splutch assembly. I removed and reinstalled correctly and tested. Its now switching back and forth between agitate and spin. I advised customer if this happens again we would need to replace the actuator and splutch assembly. Customer will let us know if it happens again.

Not cooling very good in the refrigerator section - replace control board and freezer fan motor tested functions

Unit is extremely loud during tumble. Disassembled unit and found that it was buildup of lint inside the blower wheel, which is making it off balance. Cleaned up all the lint also oiled up all rolling parts cleaned out lent did a full maintenance clean out. Reassembled unit and tested unit is now working properly.

Customer stated dishwasher unresponsive. Found loose wire nuts in junction box. Corrected wire nuts. Performed filmware update. Found code for loose wires in SmartHQ memory to confirm findings. Also found broken user interface panel and trim. Customer to silicone. Dishwasher is in good working order. If problem returns, will quote WD34X23199 trim panel and WD21X23705 user interface.

Replaced cold control. Tested and compressor and evaporator fan turns on and refrigerator is starting to cool. Refrigerator is working good.

Found the capacitor vibrating on the bracket against the frame. Insulated the capacitor and got it to stop vibrating. If problem persists order capacitor and bracket holding cap

Replaced drain pump from truck stock and tested drain. Draining strong now. ; used 1 4681EA2001T ( Drain pump) from stock

Customer is saying that when he pushes the paddle for ice no ice will come out and he has to keep pushing it and then sometimes ice dispenses. I found that on this model the door flap is motor run and wont run the ice auger until the door flap is open. It takes about 4 seconds for the door flap to open before the ice auger kicks on and dispenses ice.I showed customer this and if thats the issue, that is normal operation for this refrigerator.Refrigerator is working good.

The user interface was displaying the error code IF-E, refers to ice fan error. I removed the bottom freezer door and accessed the evaporator cover, removed it to check for frost build impeding the fan and that wire harnesses securely in place, no frost build up , wire harnesses secure. I removed the evaporator cover and installed the new cover. Plugged the refrigerator in, error code had disappeared, fans producing cold air flow. I did look at the back of the refrigerator to look at the defrost drain, its draining normally. I checked the DC electric values for the four prong ice room fan measured 4.5 volts between feedback and ground and 11.5 volts between voltage and ground. I called the customer and explained everything I found.

Customer stated ice builds up in drain pan of beverage refrigerator. Customer provide a picture from two days ago of the issue. Found temp setting at 34?F and verified drain is clear. Informed customer setting the temp at that setting will not allow ice to melt in the off cycle. Recommended setting it at 38?F at a minimum so water can drain into sump. A cold wall refrigerator needs an off cycle with a temp a few degrees above freezing to melt ice properly and it should work correctly.

Resident reported that her freezer had been staying nice and frozen since my last visit. I decided to replace the defrost heater assembly due to the fact that my SmartHQ device found four consecutive days of extended defrost cycles. I also replaced the ice maker because the old maker was causing a flood condition and ice build up in the freezer. I plugged the refrigerator back in, tested the ice maker to verify function and that water supply is stopped after the tray is full. The refrigerator is back to full function

Installed new under interface board but its the wrong part. That control panel doesnt work correctly and the display was way off.We need part number EBR85194742i was able to dig up.

Complaint is that unit is making loud banging noise. Found that water hammer was causing water lines to touch back panel of unit. Advised on moving them and possibly using foam to avoid. If other noises persist please return contact.

Upon testing oven on bake set at 350 degrees . It didnt trip the breaker for about 2 mins. Verifying that the unit isnt the problem. Advised customer to call builder and have them replace breaker fuse. Breaker fuse was hot to the touch at the panel. Done

Customer stated refrigerator leaking water into crisper drawer. Found ff drain froze up. Steamed out drain and verified pipes clear, drain update installed correctly. Adjusted aluminum around drain for better operation.

customer states weak cool in upper part of FF section and freezing. At bottom of FF section. customer had unplugged unit and allowed to thaw prior to visit, plugged in this morning and unit is no cooling.Checked all fans and compressor running, full even frost pattern on evap, defrost heater check ok drawing 3 amps in manual defrost mode, no error codes stored.Disassembled FF compartment and found air duct panel popped out of place on lower right side, secured panel. Panel out of place could cause air to leak out before making its way to the top of FF compartment. Instructed customer to monitor performance, and call back if issues persist, and leave unit plugged in.

Replaced door links with kit, door open and close fine now, Fill line started leaking when unit was pulled from cabinet, replaced line with Dw6sskit fill line kit and tested unit no leaks. ; used 1 Dw6sskit (DW fill line) from stock

Thawed ice formation in Im fill tube, replaced water valve and tested, water dispensing ok no leaks

Washer wont agitate or spin. Found that there inverter board is bad and not sensing motor spinning. Replaced inverter board, tested and washer now agitates, drains and spins. Washer is working good.

Customer stated dispenser and ice maker not working on refrigerator. Plugged smartHQ device in and found faulty RFID board. Cleared code and replaced board. Started unit and verified operations for icemaker and dispenser with filter and with bypass. Refrigerator in good order again.

Replaced evap fan and tested. Unit tested good.

Light frost in freezer - Resealed freezer gasket with hair drier to reseal minor curl at top- reseated along while gasket to be safe - all tests good -

Installed new top, bearing and front felt with glides. Tested in the dryer seems to be held in place properly now.

Door gasket it is and working good. Tested no leaks

Replaced freezer door. Refrigerator works and no more dents on freezer door. Refrigerator is working good.

Arrived on site gasket falling out cline t stated she replaced upper rack clip assemblys for d two clips not snapped in and adjusted rack that was running on gasket and pulling it out - all tests good

Customer stated dryer not heating. Found faulty hi limit. Replaced warranty covered hi limit. Cycled dryer again and verified operations. If limit fails again, control board is likely failing and keeping heating element energized. Control board is no longer available. ; used 1 6931EL3003D (THERMAL FUSE) from stock

Upon inspection! Unit had a bad fan motor . Ran to Dey to pick up part. Replaced fan motor and fixed issue!; used 1 WR60X31522 (EVAP FAN MOTOR (STANDARD SXS) AC) from stock

Installed wr49x10283 inverter board . Got the compressor to turn on! Unit is working great done; used 1 WR49X10283 (COMPRESSOR RELAY & OVERLOAD) from stock

Complaint is no ice production and unit is making a buzzing noise. Found temps on arrival of 36 in ff and 5 in frzr. Removed evaporation cover and found nearly full frost pattern looking good. System pressures of 5psi low and 95psi high. Added .5oz of 134a. Replaced ice maker. Unit is now operating properly.

Replaced bad sump and motor assembly. No leaks now. ; pckd up 1 Wpw10418332 (Sump assembly)

Installed icemaker! Tested and made sure icemaker was in the go position/ harvest mode. Advised it can take up to 24 hours for icemaker to start making ice per tech line

On arrival opened up the machine and removed the old diverter assembly. Installed new diverter and reassemble the machine. Tested and everything seems to be working properly at this time.; used 1 00751950 (CIRCULATION MOTOR) from stock

Replaced drain pump and tested for drain and leaks. Drained strong and didnt leak anything. Unit is good to go

Replaced door switch membrane with switches. Tested unit for power good to go. Unit is heating and fully operational

Replaced bad thermal cut out. Bakes great now on lower oven

Replaced wash motor, tested and dishwasher now runs quiet and is working good.

Fridge has warmed up a few times in ff and freezer. Called tech support and took through test mode. Temps were 37 and zero. Passed all tests. Compressor and fans running. I turned temp down in freezer from 3 to -1. Ff set to 37. Got a case number: its 87698962. We locked the controls. If this happens again customer will take photo of display for us.

Cooling fan not running. Replaced cooling fan. Fan is running. Oven preheated and is working good.

THE MACHINE REGULARLY ROCKS DURING OPERATION. TRIED LEVELING AND THAT DID NOT HELP. Everything worked great in test mode, but when it was spinning it was shaking a little bit more than normal. I advised customer the only thing I could do would be to replace the suspension rods and quoted customer to install them. Customer declined repairs and will use as is for now.

Replaced fan assembly and tested fan. Unit had nice frost pattern and is now blowing cold air up. Good to go

Replaced console panel (part sent to customer). No more dents. Microwave is heating and working good.

Customer states the refrigerator is not cooling correctly, the unit is freezing up and building a lot of ice called tech support spoke with Bob case number 87697226. Uploaded the pictures of the issues the customer was having. Was informed this is a non repairable.

Not making any noise the last 4 days or so. Customer stated she thinks me tinkering with it on my last visit fixed it. Will holding onto parts for return.

The amp draw to the compressor start windings was measured at .48 ohms. I tapped the filter drier to inspect high side pressure and to recover refrigerant, barely recovered any refrigerant at all, indicating a leak somewhere in the sealed system. I cut out the compressor and filter drier to gain more access to the sealed system . I isolated the discharge and suction lines looking for any possible source of a leak, did not find one. I pushed nitrogen through the remaining lines and did clean out some rust lining material from the discharge line. I prepped and brazed in a replacement filter drier and compressor, pulled a deep vacuum for a dual evaporator system and charged the low side with 4.76 ounces of R134 refrigerant. Inspected the high and low side pressures after the compressor began to run to verify correct operation. I updated the main power control board with the TX jig on my software device. The refrigerator pulled the refrigerant in and pressure on high and low side looked ideal , the appliance began cooling immediately, I told the customer that 24 hours would pass before the temperature in both cabinets was reached.

Replaced door gasket due to being ripped and worn down. Tested new door boot for leaks. Everything is tight. No leaks. Unit is good to go

Returned removed the old igniter and installed new igniter, cycled and tested the oven starts and is operating as it should be.

Put unit into test mode and verified water flow to dispenser and ice maker. Water problems are all corrected. Found ice maker not rotating 180?. Replaced ice maker and tested operations. Set temps at 0?F and 37?F.