Which Viking range do you have?
Most Viking ranges out there are freestanding professional-style models, either gas or dual fuel. The 5 Series gas oven has a closed-door infrared broiler, and above it sit VSH Pro sealed burners, a high-output TruPower Plus burner among them. Step up to the 7 Series and the front burners hit 23,000 BTU. Dual fuel models (the ones with model numbers starting VDR, for example) put the gas cooktop over an electric convection oven with a TruConvec mode and self-clean. Every one of them uses electric spark ignition with automatic reignition, and every burner has Vari-Simmer settings.
Sparks, no flame and other Viking headaches
Start with igniters that keep sparking after the burner is lit. Viking names two causes. Either the igniters are wet or dirty, or the power supply is ungrounded or has reversed polarity. Rule those out and a failing spark module or switch becomes the likely suspect.
Sparking with no flame is a different problem. Make sure gas is actually reaching the range, since a shutoff valve left closed or a break in the supply will do exactly this. With the gas confirmed on, look at clogged ports or a burner head that's sitting in the wrong position. And when the igniters don't spark at all, check for a tripped breaker or blown fuse. A range that has power but still won't spark points to the spark module or the wiring.
A gas oven that won't heat is classic weak bake igniter territory. On convection models, uneven baking comes from a fan motor or element that has failed. A broiler that won't come on can be as simple as the oven knob sitting a little too far beyond the broil setting, according to Viking. When that's not it, the broil igniter or burner needs to be checked.
Recalls to rule out
Viking recalled certain VGIC, VGCC and VGSC freestanding gas ranges because liquid could seep into the area around the control panel and make the range turn on by itself. Certain VGR and VGIC models had a separate recall over gas tubing. Since recall repairs are free through Viking's network, run your model and serial number past Viking before paying for an unrelated repair.
Five checks before you schedule a tech
- Look at the range's breaker or fuse.
- After cleaning or a boil-over, let the burners dry out completely.
- Hand wash the burner caps in warm, soapy water, then dry them. Use a straight pin on clogged ports, never a toothpick.
- Each burner head should sit flat, with its arrow aimed at the back of the range.
- Don't try to cook during a power outage. Turn every control off and wait for the power to come back.
Spotting the rating plate
Open the oven door and the rating plate is normally right under the control panel. Some models put it on the underside of the control panel above the door instead, or under the left front grate support on the left side panel. On a lot of ranges the serial number's first six digits give the build date.
Hurricane season with a Viking
Power outages matter more with a Viking than with a lot of ranges, because the manual says not to operate it without power. Losing power in the middle of a self-clean cycle isn't a crisis. Just wait, and the door will unlock on its own when the power returns. Then you can restart the cycle.
Should you fix an aging Viking?
Viking ranges are put together from replaceable parts like burners, igniters, valves, spark modules, broilers, thermostats and fan motors. As long as the oven cavity and the frame are sound, the range is usually worth repairing, especially when it was built to fit a custom opening and hood. Heavy rust, damage inside the oven or a recall that hasn't been resolved are the cases to think through more carefully.