"Complaint is that its not cooling. Today it was on and running when I arrived I found that the fresh food side was in a vacuum about 15 psi, and the high side was about 75 psi. I removed both covers and both of the evaporators have very low frost pattern. I checked all the evaporators and all over for leaks and I ended up finding die leaking from the bottom of the condenser. Today I replaced the condenser and dryer. I purged and leaked checked the system with nitrogen and found no leaks. I pulled it into a deep vacuum less than 400 microns for about 20 minutes. I installed all the bins and shelf parts that were sent. The customer wants more bin replaced. Please submit for approval. Ship the customer the bin parts please if they are approved. While brazing I kind of melted the condenser fan and bracket EAU62025701 . It didnt seem to make a difference and they still work. Customer was ok with it I just said I would note it. Bins needed.AAP73252302AJP73596408; snapped 2 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"Customer complaint is, DOOR SEAL CAME OFF. Installed new door seal and tested. Now I see why its falling off is because when they installed the dryer, they must have switched the door swings and its not lining up because its upside down. I disassembled door to flip it around and some of the plastic brackets are broken so you cant flip it and the glass brackets are missing. The door seal is going to keep falling off with the door like this. This is going to need a whole new door. I cant see that they sell it as one assembly, but looks like it comes in 2 parts and one is NLA. I need the whole door. Can someone see if this is covered and see if they can find a new door. This is a chrome shadow door. ; saved tckt"

"The customer said both sections have stopped cooling and it does not make ice. I verified both sections are warm and nothing g is running. The fresh food is above 40 degrees and the freezer is above 20 degrees. I put the fridge into diagnostics and there are no fault codes. I took it out of service mode and still would not start up. I then did a 40 second hard reset. Now the compressor came on and all the fans. This is a common failure and it will need the rear main board. Please get approval Rear main board W10843055; snapped 1 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"Customer complaint is, MAKING A NOISE. Inspected and tested. Found the idler pulley is falling off. Customer approved repairs. Installed new idler pulley and vacuumed out inside of dryer. Tested and dryer sounds great. Dryer is now fixed.

"Customer complaint is, NOISEY WHEN START THEN SLIGHTLY GOES AWAY. Inspected and tested. Found the idler pulley is seized up and the belt is wearing into it. Rollers and belt are good. Customer approved repairs. Installed new idler pulley and vacuumed out inside of dryer. Tested and dryer sounds great. Dryer is now fixed.

"Customer complaint is, GAS OVEN NOT HOLDING THE TEMPS. Inspected and tested. I removed bottom panel and inspected the ignitor and everything looked good. Its got the spark electrode ignitor. Its doing some really weird stuff. The first time I tried it it only clicked once and didnt ignite. I turned it off and back on a couple times and there was no clicking. I tried the broil and still no clicking. I tried bake again and it ignited on the first try but then went out. I tried again and then it ignited on the first click and started preheating. It only got to 300 and then went out. A couple minutes later it ignited on the first click and finished preheating. The ignitor wiring harness is the new style with the rubber coating. Pulled out oven and tested from the board and found the DSI board has failed. Customer approved repairs. Installed new DSI board and tested. Oven preheated great and is heating great and cycling between 390F and 320F for 3 cycles. Range is now fixed."

Customer says no matter what load she dries the dryer will give her a d80 error which is a vent clogged error. I ran test and tested temperature with vent connected and it went to almost 270 degrees. I disconnected vent and dryer got up to 200 degrees and is cycling heat normally. I showed customer and informed her that her dryer vent will need to be cleaned out. House is townhome and looks like vent goes up through the roof. She will have it cleaned out. Dryer itself is cycling heat and working good.

"Did not see it leaking when i got here but customer says it leaks though the ceiling again and filled up pan of water in basement. I did wiggle the water valve hard and found a small drip. I replaced water valve inlet, tested with several cups of water and cycled ice maker and no leaks. Working good as im here."

"Not draining. Found a bad drain pump. I cleaned everything out of the sump and reassembled, sucked water through drain line under the sink. It drains all the way now but pump doesnt sound good. She will use for now, if drain pump totally stops working she will replace the dishwasher.

Today we replaced the drain pump and mounted the dishwasher properly. We ran the dishwasher and it washes and drains good.

"Customer complaint is, oven door handle is loose. I removed door and disassembled and applied thread lock to screws and tightened down. Reassembled and tested. Range is now fixed.

"The whole unit is not cooling as good as it use to. The freezer is above 10 and the fresh food is above 40. I pulled it out and found that the compressor was replaced about 3 years ago. The low side pressure was in a vacuum and the high side was around 75. I used the leak detector glasses and light and found die around the condenser solder joint. They replaced the compressor and the condenser. To verify I pressurized the system with nitrogen and sprayed the joints with soap. Where the die was I saw bubbles. I replaced the compressor, filter drier and repaired the leaking joint. I purged the system again and found no leaks. I then pulled a vacuum and recharge the system. I advised them to wait 6-8 hours to cool and 24 hours before its 100 percent back to normal."

Dryer wont turn on. Found that there is no power at the outlet. Checked breaker and it is on. Customer said that there is a switch that turns on the roof fan for the dryer and it was turned off but i could hear inside the dryer that the roof fan (booster fan) was running. I turned on the switch and the dryer turns on. Dryer is running and heating and working good.I showed and explained to customer that the switch controls power to the outlet and that the booster fan is always running. Customer is aware and will use dryer as normal knowing that the light switch controls the power to the dryer outlet.

"Customer complaint is, DETERGENT DISP , RINSE AID EMPTIES DURING THE 1ST WASH AFTER FILLING, ALSO STOPS WITH A CODE. I20. Customer said that when they fill up the rinse aid compartment, its empty after running dishwasher one time. The i20 code is a drain error. Dishwasher had standing water in it when I got here. I canceled and drained and pump was running, but not draining. I removed hose from garbage disposal and found it was plugged at the garbage disposal. Cleaned out plug and tested. Dishwasher is draining great now. Also found the sump filter was plugged solid. I showed this to the customer and advised on cleaning regularly. Customer approved repairs. Installed new dispenser assembly and tested. Dishwasher is now fixed.

The customer had it unplugged and mostly defrosted but I still had to defrost the top coil of the evaporator. I put into a defrost and the defrost heater comes on. We replaced the defrost sensor and installed the drain kit. No other issues found. This model does not have the second loop so it does not need the add on heater.

Replaced condenser fan motor and fan blade. Tested and fan is running and no more squealing noise. Refrigerator is working good.

"Unit was getting gas smell during bake at beginning of cycle. Found a weak igniter. Would glow then open gas before lighting. Quoted replacement. Customer approved. Installed part and unit is working properly.

"Not filling with water. Found the float assembly switch was bound up and not allowing voltage to the water valve. Disassembled the switch, cleaned it up and oiled parts. Now it actuates great and fills with water.

"Replaced bad Icemaker. Cycled it, it filled great. Also got water filter part number for customer."

"Its been running the drain pump randomly when not in use. Found no evidence of mineral deposit coming down from water inlet, wash motor or drain pump or sump. But I did find where a screw could be, that water has been going through that screw hole in the frame for quite some time. It pools up on the top of the hinge and then runs down into sump basin. Then it triggers the flood sensor. I showed it to the customer after pulling out the dishwasher. I used special silver tape to seal off the hole on upper right and left to stop water from getting through. Ran it, it runs great now, no water leaking down by the front right corner like it was doing before."

"Replaced turntable motor, tested and it now spins. Microwave is working good."

"Customer complaint is, D90 ERROR CODE, EXHAUST IS CLEANED. Inspected and tested. Started dryer on a timed dry high heat cycle and got 245F really fast and then cycled off. Dryer then cycled on at 90F but only for a few seconds and cut out before it got to 150F. Dryer is quick cycling now and giving a D95 error. I disconnected the vent and now dryer is cycling between 220F and 100F and airflow on back of dryer is 27mph. Its not giving the error with the vent disconnected. The problem is with the vent. Its on the second story and looks like it vents out the roof. I advised customer to have a company come out and clean the vent."

"Came back out to service dryer. They ran it on 2 full timed dry cycles before I got here. They put a load of wet towels in the dryer this morning. Towels are still pretty damp. When I got here I put my temp sensor in the dryer, and restarted it on a timed dry high heat. It ran for 30 minutes and only fired up once. After that it stopped firing and only ran, at 90 degrees. Called GE, sat on hold for 20 minutes, then left my number for them to call me back. DW, can you please order the sensors and the ignitor sensor/radiant sensor? All the possible sensors would be: #WE4X448, #WE4M398, #WE4M137, #WE4M80, #WE04X20685 #WE4M300, and WE1575. ; saved tckt , states that autho needed"

Found that washer keeps overfilling even when on lowest water setting. Also not spinning out clothes. Clutch is worn out and water pressure switch is bad. Customer approved estimate. Ordering parts and rescheduling.; ordrd 1 285785 (Clutch) and 1 W10335056 (Water Level switch)

"The customer complaint is when the door is shut the cooling fan and light are on but my queer still runs. I tested and then replaced the door switches. All the door switches are making contact and working properly. The door looks fine. Now we will need the main board.need board. I could not locate the part because I cannot find the revision number. I added a pic of the tag .; (serial indicated as 'NotAvailable' so system created UIS w/pseudo #), used 3 MICRO7 (3/16' MICROSWITCH) from stock"

"Not dissolving detergent. After running it a few times, found the dispenser door is getting bound up and doesnt open when its supposed to. Quoted for new dispenser. Coming back next Friday to install. ; ordrd 1 5304507354 (Detergent dispenser)"

Wrong mag. Dana had the correct one ordered. Please update home owner with eta. ; states that autho needed

"Customer complaint is, THE LED LIGHTS ARE OUT. Inspected and tested. Found the top LED module in the FF compartment has failed. Quoted customer $443. to install new LED module. Customer approved repairs. Part on order. ; ordrd 1 WPW10515058 (LED module)"

There is power and switches turn on the LED on light so that shows the igniter switches are good. Only other thing is the spark module. Spark module shows NLA. I would also need the DACOR cooktop removal tool.Please double check to make sure that this is the right spark module part for this model.Contact customer with ETA and estimate.Spark module SGM365S; igniter microswitch 86694; DACOR cooktop tool; saved tckt

Customers complaint unit leaking through floor to basement. Found the heating element seals bad. Leaking from the left side needs new heating element quoted blue book. Customer approved. Ordering part from dey W11537778; ordrd 1 W11537778 (Heater)

Bottom door is not sealing due to Found that the both freezer door and refrigerator door cams are worn out and need to be replaced. Looks like the freezer and refrigerator door cams are different . sears parts break down doesnt say if its for freezer door and refrigerator door. P(see picture. I need both top and bottom plastic cams on both doors.Once cams are replaced doors should be even and I can heat up the seals and make sure it is sealing all the way around.I called and let owner know as well. Let me know if you have questions.; saved tckt

The fresh food is frosted up on the evaporator again and its not making ice. Previously I have replaced the fan kit and all the other related parts for the issue on the evaporator. Now peer the service bulletin it will need the user interface and rear main board. I checked the ice maker and there are no fault codes and it does cycle in test mode. ; ordrd 1 W10843055 (Main control) and 1 W10849460 (User interface)

"Customer complaint is, DID NOT WASH THRU CYCLES - STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF A CYCLE - POSSIBLE LID LOCK. Inspected and tested. Found the lid lock catch is broken off and the lid lock is full of liquid soap. Needs a new lid lock and catch. Installed new lid lock, catch and tested. Ran washer through a complete normal cycle and it worked perfectly. Washer is now fixed."

Customers complaint freezing items in the drawer. Customer had eco mode on. I explained what she uses. She said she alway had it on super cool. I explained super cool eco and super freeze features. I explained you dont want to use them all the time and I recommend not using them at all. Running it a super cool will eventually freeze items. Explained all the features best of my knowledge.

"Customer left for a week and had her water turned off. When she came back, wasnt making ice/ found a charred optics board because the water didnt get totally turned off, so the water valve didnt totally close, and it dripped water into the icemaker funnel until it all froze up and overflowed. I replaced the optics board, and steamed out the icemaker and funnel. Then cleaned out the ice from behind the optics board. Jumped the board and the icemaker filled with water perfectly and no drip.

"The upper rack binds up on the front left side when the rack slides in and out. The only issue I could see was the rack adjuster on the right side has been replaced and was different. The upper rack adjusters wheels should be big and the rack adjusted wheel that is on the new adjuster are small. I used the rack adjusters kit we carry and swapped the small wheels for the big wheels. We put the upper rack back in and it glides in and out and is not pulling on the door seal.

"Replaced spray arms, rollers, filter. Tested and dishwasher now sprays and a spray arms spin. I recommended to tenant to used finish dishwasher cleaner and how to clean out filter. Dishwasher is working good."

Install switch from last diagnosis. Once installed tested multiple times to make sure it was operating correctly. Customer also complaint left rear burner was light to stay lit. I cleaned the burner igniter and the sensor and everything now is operating correctly.

"Fridge has been making a vibrating sound. Customer cleaned off coils, and then raised the right front leg today and the vibrating went away. I looked under the fridge and could see the condenser coils on the right side were off the ground but the coils on the left side were really close to the ground. We used my pump wedges and a level and raised the left side up until fridge is level and coils off both sides of floor. Very quiet now."

"Not draining. Took washer apart. Cleaned out filter. Then found the five drain holes in bellow all plugged up with hair and grime. Cleaned those out, then flushed 64 oz of water through: now it drains great. Added grease to gasket of filter so that it seals nicely and will be easier to get off in future."

"Not running. Ended up finding a bad power cord. Missing L2. Replaced cord, vacuumed out dryer, and now it runs great.

"Microwave cuts out immediately. Individually tested each component, magnetron, transformer, fan, thermal cutouts, etc and all are good and it does the same thing when each one is disconnected. Board itself is shorting. Needs new board. $433 for new board but its NLA. Checked nationwide. They had a second microwave here, I attached the ID tag. Had a bad microswitch and it wouldnt allow it to run. I replaced the switch and now it runs and heats great.

The customer said the washer does not spin and has a LE code. We tested the washer and found the speed sensor was bad. We pulled the washer out and replaced the speed sensor. We tested the washer again and now it washes and spins good.

"Customer had GE shipped them the motor. Installed motor, tested and no more grinding noise.Washer is working good."

From what i understand that they said that the dryer will shut off after two minutes. As im here tested inside dryer temperature and it was cycling at 210 degrees which is normal and vent is not clogged. I tested with wet clothes and moisture sensor is working and adds time and then decreases time when dry/nothing is inside dryer. I cleaned out lint trap of lint/debris. Dryer is working good as im here. I let maintenance guy know what i found and told them to use as normal.

"Customer complaint is, F24 ERROR CODE INTERMITTENTLY. Customer said that theyve never seen standing water in dishwasher and it usually gives the code at the beginning of the the cycle before it fills with water. Inspected and tested. I removed the filter and drain cover and everything looked good and was clear. Dishwasher drains downstairs. Its got a really long black rubber hose extension in the basement and hooks up to the pipe underneath the sink in the basement. Rubber hose had a connection about 3/4 of the way down, so I disconnected it and ran it straight into the sink. Customer approved me leaving it like this. I ran dishwasher for about 30 minutes and it was working perfectly. I think if she continues to have problems, we will need to replace the drain pump.

replaced defrost sensor. Tested and refrigerator is cooling and working good.

Last time I was here I replaced the ignitor. Today I replaced the gas valve. Now it ignites and heats great.

"Found that the door hinges are bent. Looks like someone stepped or pushed door down and caused hinges and inner panel to bend causing door not to shut. I bent back the hinges and door now lines up and door latch pulls door shut. Door now opens and closes nicely.Tested and dishwasher is running and working with no leaks.Office: I added wrong pictures to this work order so ignore the washer photos I took photos of bent door. I informed customer that doors are not covered under the service plan but I told her that i would have the office double check and to call her and let her know. Other than that, after i bent back the hinges the dishwasher door shuts and appears to work good.; saved tckt"

Installed new springs still door drops. Tried every adjustment. Need stronger springs. Added photo of old ones and panel. Talked with Jared he will get with asko and let the customer and tech know. ; saved tckt

The whole unit stopped cooling. I found the compressor is not running. I forced into a cool mode but the compressor does not come on. I get 120 to the inverter and 3.5 signal voltage. The compressor tested good across the winding. It will most likely need the inverter. I gave the quote. Im ordering the part from Dey. ; used 1 W10893917 (COMPRESSOR (RELAY/OVERLOAD) INVERTER ASSM) from stock

"The customer said if you times randomly the freezer and the refrigerator section will both lose good calling temperatures in the warm up. The customer says if you power cycle, the refrigerator and the longer than he leaves off then it will start to work again. Today when I arrived I found it to be cooling good. The compressor was warm but not very hot, the condenser coils are hot. I removed the freezer evaporator and it had a ok frost pattern but I was not very frosty yet. I left the cover off for about 20 minutes and it started to build up with more frost. I asked the customer if it ever sounds like it shuts off and then tries to start back up over and over or if it makes a faint chirp sound, if it does that can indicate the board failure. The customer does not think that was happening. I tapped into the low side. The low side pressure was around minus 7 at 72 degrees room temp. A few minutes later the went up to around 0. I cycled it off and let the pressure equalize. I then powered it back on. The low side pressure started to drop. Around 15 psi the compressor made uncommon noise and the pressure shot up to about 20 then the noise stopped and it pulled back down. Im not 100 percent sure but I think it may have a compressor issue. Its also possible the main board is failing. Please build a quote to replace the compressor and inverter and contact the customer. I advised the customer that if it happens again to not power cycle it. Please quote for these parts-Compressor W10841139Inverter W10629033If we replace those parts I would need 4 hours on return. ; snapped 1 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

The cooktop glass is all cracked. The front right dual burner outer ring is bad. The switches sticks and turn rough. The warming center switch was very stuck and would not turn easy. The front left burner does not work at all. It will need all the parts listed. Cooktop WB62X25972Right front burner WB30T10130Left front burner WB30X24111Need 2-Dual switches WB24X25013Need 2-switches WB24T10029Warming center switch WB24X40051; saved tckt

"The complaint is the whole unit is not cooling and not making ice. The unit was plugged in and running. I pulled the fridge out and tapped into the low side. The low side pressure was 60 psi and the compressor was running. It will need the compressor, new board and filter dried. Please call for approval. ; snapped 1 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

No lights. Can hear relay click but no lights. Checked behind and no power at light socket. Relay baord controls light. Customer approved estimate.Cannot find board in stock. Please search board and confirm estimate (see picture for estimate) and schedule customer.Relay board WB27X32106; saved tckt

"Bake and broil do not come on. Reset thermal cut out and it ohms good and neither comes on still. JR is researching board, will call customer back tonight or tomorrow. Customer requesting part number as well. Can see last appliance company that came out had to use two men and an oven cart to get it out. Will need a second man and extra time. ; saved tckt"

"The unit is not making ice. The ice maker is getting 120 volts. We pulled the front off the ice maker and found shorted wires inside. The ice maker is also very crusty. It will need the ice maker kit. Please look up the parts and contact the customer. ; snapped 4 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"Customer complaint is, HEATS BUT NO AIRFLOW, HE CLEANED EVERYTHING OUT. Inspected and tested. Found the blower belt is broken. Quoted customer $321. to install new belt. Customer approved repairs. Part on order. ; ordrd 1 WP8544742 (Belt)"

"Unit wont bake. Everything else is working. For some reason got a thermostat delivered to the customer. Pulled unit and disassembled. Found the one wire on the element was burnt off. Closer inspection found the element male end busted off so cant even rewire it. Its up to zline if they want a new harness installed or repair the wire. Please send customer a new bake element. Not able to look up parts due to service in house. ; snapped 2 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"No heat and making squeaking noises when tumbling. Found that fabric selector switch is bad and not sending power to cycling thermostat. Also neeeds rollers, idler and belt. Customer approved estimate. Ordering parts and rescheduling. Scheduling 2 hours.; ordrng 2 D510708P (Rollers)s and 1 D516792 (Idler) and 1 D513505 (Temperature switch), ordrd 1 D511255P (Belt)"

"Replaced bad heating element. Old one ohmed at 3.4 mega ohms. Installed new one, ran through test mode. Now it runs at 7 amps on the black wire to the heater. Complaint before was no heat. Heats great now.

Installed new dispenser from last diagnosis. He tested unit with door skin off to make sure no leaks occurred. All tested good. Reassembled unit tested again. It matured and no suds were left over.

"The customer complaint was the dryer, made a loud grinding type sound. He said it stopped recently and has not made it sense. I inspected the drum and front bulkhead for something that was stuck in scraping but I found nothing. I put a wet load of laundry in the dryer in a sounds good today."

Unit not draining. Hooked up my wet vac up to the drain and sucked the water out. Removed the drain hose at the pump. And found the check valve all plugged up cleared it then reassembled tested and now working properly.

Its been frosting up in freezer on left side. Found the wooden panel on the freezer door is hitting the trim on the cabinet not quite allowing the door to close. I pulled the fridge out 1/4 and now the freezer door seals great all the way around.

"Customer complaint is, WILL NOT FILL UP HOT OR COLD WATER. Inspected and tested. Found the supply hoses are flood safe and there both tripped and shut. Customer approved repairs. Installed new supply hoses and tested. Washer is working great. Washer is now fixed.

Unit making loud noise during cycle. Verified complaint. Removed the front found a bunch of black dust around the drain pump. Found the drain pump is stripped. Didnt have part. Ran to Sundberg got the part installed. Tested. Unit is working properly now.

Added some shims to left side door and now doors are even. Refrigerator is working good.

"Water pooling up on bottom of fresh food section. Drain line frozen, and needs kit and new sensor. Replaced sensor and installed insulation, new heat probe, and drains, after steaming out for an hour. Also sealed a tiny crack in lining behind evaporator cover. Put it on power freeze and power cool. Running nicely now.

Found that the the power is not wired correctly. Not getting 240v from L1 to L2 but am getting 240v from L2 to N at the outlet. The outlet looks correct so it lies probably at the breaker box issue. That is the reason for continuous sparking when using cooktop and very long preheat times for the oven. I showed customer and they recently had the kitchen remodeled and they will call their contractor.

"Customer complaint is, DURING THE WASH CYCLE IT MAKES LOUD NOISE. Customer said that it doesnt do it every time. I tipped washer back and inspected underneath and motor bolt was tight. I removed agitator and did not find anything underneath it. I reassembled and started a darks cycle because thats what the customer was using when it was making the noise. Washer filled, agitated, drained and spun and sounded great. I cant get the washer to make the noise while testing."

"Customer complaint is, MAKING A LOUD VIBRATING NOISE WHEN STARTING UP. Customer said they only hear it at the beginning of the cycle. Inspected and tested. I started dishwasher and opened the door after it started filling and heard a vibration/squealing noise. I started filling again and couldnt get it to do it again. I filled, washed and drained about 5 different times and couldnt get it to do it again. The only thing that had been running before it made the noise was the fill valve. Customer said they have good water pressure. Im thinking its noise from the valve because of the water pressure. Otherwise dishwasher is running great."

The complaint was all of the burner flames are low so it takes a long time to heat anything. I adjusted each of the burners to increase the hight of the flames. I adjusted all to the max on low. Now the flames lip over the cap on low heat. I advised the customer this is the best we can do. If its not not good enough then they would need to replace the cooktop.

Unit wouldnt drain. Put unit in drain couldnt hear anything. Vacuumed out water and found some food debris jamming the propeller on the pump. Cleared and cleaned. Filled unit and drain. Now unit is draining properly. Tested multiple times.

The customer said the washer does not agitate or spin. I found the belt was stretched and fell off. I put a new belt on it and ran the agitate and spin. In the spin cycle the bearing in the gear case is loud. It would need a gear case to fix the noise issue. For now the customer will use it then replace it in the future.

"Found that the gas coils are bad and stops turning on gas to heat. Customer approved estimate. Replaced gas coils and cleaned out inside dryer of lint. Tested and dryer is heating and working good. Dryer vent is venting outside fine, dryer temperature are cycling correctly.

"Customer complaint is, MAKING NOISE. Inspected and tested. Dryer has a terrible vibration noise. Found the blower wheel and bulkhead are packed full of lint. The rollers and idler pulley are good. I cleaned out blower wheel and bulkhead. Reassembled and tested. Dryer sounds great. Dryer is now fixed."

"Bake not working, and right rear ignitor not sparking. Cleaned up the cook top ignitor and now that ignites great. Replaced the bake ignitor and now it ignites and heats great.

"Icemaker doesnt make ice and it had fallen down. Found the slot the arm goes into was completely broken and loose. Replaced Icemaker. Cycled it and it cycled great now. Please note the far right screw hole is stripped so I tightened the screw that mounts the icemaker, lightly, but its not totally tight on the right screw. The screw that mounts it under the icemaker is patched, like that was stripped. So I put a little silver vent tape over the bottom mounting bracket to secure it better to the wall of the freezer and hold it in place better.

Getting warm temps in the fridge. Noticed the door isnt sealing. Readjusted door now its sealing properly.

"The whole unit is not cooling in both sections. I put through self diagnostic mode and there are no faults. I then put into force freeze and the fans come on but not the compressor. The compressor inverter board red light is flashing 5 times, that indicates low voltage. I do not get 2.5 volts dc from the main pcb board. It will need the main pcb board DA41-00620B. I was unable to find the part. Please look to see if the part is available and contact the customer. ; snapped 2 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"Found that filter/spray arm was not locked in place and filter was dirty and was no high loop underneath sink. Found that soap dispenser is door plastic is broke and wont stay closed and customer throws soap on bottom of dishwasher. Also the door seal is corroded and ripped but not leaking yet. Besides seal and soap dispenser, Tested and mechanically everything else is working. I suggested to used finish dishwasher cleaner to clean out hard water and grease build up. Cleaned out filter and added high loop.I called management contact and gave him estimate to fix other stuff and he said he will get autho and call us back.Please follow up and see what they want to do.; saved tckt"

"Customer says ice maker is intermittently making ice. It will stop asking ice for about 2-3 weeks and then the following week it will start to make ice for the next few days then stop again.Customer said square trade had sent out another company but then customer could not get ahold of them to actually fix the refrigerator and then we are sent here.I ran test of ice maker and i could hear it run but the teeth did not move.Square trade sent ice maker and water filter housing. I replaced part, tested and ice maker cycles and fills. I informed customer that it could take up to 24 hours to make ice.Follow up with customer tomorrow to ensure that ice is being made.; saved tckt"

"Customer complaint is, NOT COMPLETE, F35 ERROR CODE. Inspected and tested. Washer is giving a suds and F35 error. I disconnected the pressure sensor and it went away and let me run a drain and spin. The pressure sensor has failed. Part number W10156252. I cant find it in stock anywhere. Can someone find this pressure sensor and give the customer a quote. ; saved tckt"

"Customer complaint is, WASHER WILL NOT RUN, SENSING LIGHT CONTINUES TO FLASH. Inspected and tested. Washer is full of water. Found the drain pump has failed. Part on order. ; ordrd 1 W11399437 (Drain pump)"

"Unit giving an error code randomly for a communication issue between the board and display. Inspected unit and control board. I did find a loose cap. Recommended sending the board off for repair. They will replace the display. Explained what it looks like. And then will rebuild the controls board. Gave a quote of 800$. Customer also said the broil element doesnt work. Hasnt worked since the replaced it 3 years ago. Found the plug is off. Will need to pull unit to install broil element correct. Please schedule return visit for 2 blocks. Please text/email tech once all paper is ready to ship the part. Thank you; snapped 2 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"Unit wont spin. Verified complaint just spin wont work. Tested lid lock and found lid lock has failed. Have one on truck that would work. Call and texted property manager and no reply installed part. Tested and working properly. Phil approved installing part. Please collect total amount. ; used 1 3949247V (LID SWITCH) from stock, states that autho needed"

The customer said the dishwasher was giving the e15 water leak error. The customer had removed the bottom toe kick panel and the door panel. Today when I arrived I found the dishwasher will not start when power is pressed. I removed the front panel and found the power switch wires have been broken then taped back together and the 3 red wires to the panel are broken at the connection to the panel. We tried to match up where the wires go but the panel still does not respond. I verified the power switch is getting 120 volts across the 2 brown wires. I left the plug off the panel for safety. I cannot run the dishwasher in its currant state. From what I can see it looks like water was leaking from the water valve. I see water deposits and calcium under the valve. Please submit the parts to warranty and contact the customer. Would need 2 hours on return. Harness 12014146Panel 00775761Harness 00648135Power module 12016882Water valve 00628334; saved tckt

"Not draining. Has a bad drain pump. Impeller is broken. Looked up part number. 5304463777 and substitute. Cant find anyone nationwide who has it. DW can you see if you can find it, and if so, call RPM and quote them and set up return visit? If part NLA please just bill the trip charge. I put it in labor. ; saved tckt"

"The customer said it gave a fault code. We started the deans it drains for a few seconds on and off and sounds bad. The fault e25 came up, thats for a bad drain pump. Sometimes the drain pump will pump just fine. It will need a drain pump. ; ordrd 1 00631200 (MOTOR ONLY - DRAIN)"

Found that turntable motor is locked up. Getting power to it but not turning.; ordrd 1 6549W1S013H (Turntablele motor)

"Customer complaint is, LEAVES MARKS ON THE CLOTHES. Inspected and tested. Found the glides are wore out on the front bearing assembly and the drum is cutting into the bearing. Clothes are getting caught in there and its leaving marks. Needs a new top bearing assembly and bottom felt. Customer approved repairs. Installed new front bearing assembly and bottom felt. Tested and dryer sounds great. Dryer is now fixed."

The customer said that it was making a buzzing sound but stopped a few days ago. We found water pooling up in the bottom again. We removed the evaporator cover and there was just the normal frost on the evaporator but no real build up. I defrosted the evaporator and dried the evap cover with a hair dryer. I put silicone around one of the vents on the cover. I raised the front feet so it may drain better.

Replaced ice maker and water valve. Tested and and works but in test mode there is no way to test the timed fill to see if cubes are full. I explained that itll take 24 hours to make ice and also explained that this mode on average makes about 3 pounds of ice in 24 hours. Since its an office fridge I wanted to make them aware.Also it is on a reverse osmosis system and next step would be to ensure it has the correct pressure per the manufacture specs for ice maker to preform correctly.Ice maker and water valve are working and they will keep an eye on the ice production can call back if they keep having issues.

Leaking from another section of waterline. Replaced the whole line now. No leaks now.

"Customer complaint is, THE DOOR SEALS SEAMS TO BE WEAK. Inspected and tested. FF compartment is 39F and freezer is 2F. The FF door gasket is falling apart. Customer approved repairs. Installed new FF door gasket. Refrigerator is sealing nicely. Refrigerator is now fixed."

The complaint is the dishwasher does not drain. I started the drain pump on a test mode and the pump works fine. I checked the air gap and found it was plugged up. I cleaned out the air gap and tested it again. Now it drains good.

"Customer complaint is, NOT POWERING UP. Customer said it will run a couple loads and then go dead. Usually when there running the sidekick underneath at the same time. Inspected and tested. Washer is brand new and was bought at a scratch and dent store. Its so new I cant even find any information on it when I looked it up. Both washers power on and are working now when I tested them. Customer said that when it goes dead, both washer are dead. This has to be a problem with the electrical at the wall because both washers have their own cords and are plugged into the same outlet. I advised that this has to be a electrical problem, not a washer problem and to run a cord from a different outlet next time it happens and it should work."

Replaced both Icemaker and water valve. Works great now. The old valve was frozen in the dispenser portion.

Installed new parts. Once installed tested. Unit is working properly.