Counted from our technicians' notes on 148 LG washer service calls.
An LG washer that won't drain
A washer that won't drain shows OE. On a front-loader, go straight to the drain pump filter behind the little access panel at the lower front. That's where coins, hair ties and lint pile up. With the filter and hose both clear, a pump that hums but doesn't move any water has most likely failed.
Leaks, banging and other LG washer trouble
Water coming out the front
Front-load leaks mostly trace back to the door boot seal. Look for a tear, a fold, or something stuck in the lip. Too much detergent can also push suds and water out of the drum.
Shaking, banging and UE
Most UE codes come from one heavy item or a very small load. When loads are normal and the washer sits level, worn shock absorbers or suspension rods can let the tub knock against the cabinet. A roar or rumble during spin that gets worse over time points to the tub bearings. On front-loaders, the drum's spider arm can corrode and crack at around the same point in the machine's life.
No spin, with LE or CE
LG's advice is to let the washer sit for 30 minutes, then restart it. A code that comes back means the motor stator, rotor or hall (position) sensor needs testing.
Slow to fill, or IE
Make sure both taps are all the way open and neither hose is kinked. Then look at the inlet screens for sediment. With good water pressure, the inlet valve is the part that usually fails.
Reading an LG washer code
| Code | What it usually means |
|---|
| OE | Not draining. Clogged drain pump filter, kinked or frozen drain hose, or a failed drain pump |
| IE | Not filling. Water supply off, low pressure, clogged inlet screens or a bad inlet valve |
| UE | Unbalanced load. Load too small or lopsided, washer not level, or worn suspension |
| LE | Motor locked or overloaded. Overloaded drum, or a hall sensor or motor problem |
| CE | Motor drawing too much current (over-current) |
| dE, dE1, dE2 | Door not closed or not locking. Door, latch, lock or wiring |
| PE | Water level (pressure) sensor problem |
| tE | Water temperature sensor (thermistor) or heating problem |
| FE | Too much water. Inlet valve stuck open or a water level sensor problem |
| FF | Water frozen in the hoses, pump or drum |
| Sud | Too many suds. The washer runs a suds-reducing routine, so use less HE detergent |
Codes and their meanings change from model to model. A code tells you which area to look at, not which part failed, so write it down before you reset anything.
What you can safely try yourself
- Clean the drain pump filter. Lay down towels and a shallow pan first, because water will come out.
- Straighten the drain and supply hoses and make sure the taps are open.
- Level the washer and spread the load out evenly.
- For FF, LG suggests pouring warm water into the drum and wrapping the supply hose in a warm, wet towel.
- Seeing Sud? Switch to HE detergent and use less of it.
Front-loaders carry the model number on a silver sticker you'll see when you open the door, up high on the front frame. A top-loader could have it on the left side panel, up on the back of the cabinet, or down at the bottom right once you lift the lid.
Keeping the drum fresh
Wipe down the door gasket and leave the door open between loads so the drum can dry. Run Tub Clean when the washer reminds you. In hard-water homes, clean the inlet screens if fill times start creeping up.
Bearings, pumps and what's worth fixing
On many LG washers, the warranty gives the direct-drive motor's stator and rotor longer parts-only coverage than the rest of the machine. Exact coverage depends on your model and when you bought it. Pumps, valves, door locks, boot seals and suspension parts are generally worth fixing. Bearing and spider failures eat up a lot of labor, so the age and condition of the rest of the washer weigh more heavily there.