"Dryer dead. I found a detached internal vent and lots of lint built up. Found a tripped thermal cutout. Reset the cutout on the burner housing. Part D510702. Cleaned all lint out of dryer and blower housing. Tested it but board isnt sending out correct output voltage and it needs a new board. Need to replace board and thermal cutout. Board is D513797P. Ticket created. DW can you please order parts and schedule return visit with customer?; saved tckt , states that autho needed"

"The power light comes on but it does not light up the display. I found one of the 15 amp fuses was bad. I replaced the fuse but its still not working. I do not get 230 volts across the contacts in the board but I get 120 from each side. One of the thermostats is bad but I dont know from the break down which is which. I called tech line and he told me to replace everything even the main board. Please just get a quote for the parts listed below plus the 15 amp fuse I replaced and labor then contact the customer. I tried but blue book would not pull up a good price. 251499 thermostat235487 thermostat234659 thermostat; used 1 MICRO1 (CF15SB 15 AMP FUSE) from stock, states that autho needed"

Dishwasher just hums. Doesnt circulate water. I ran it. Wash motor is worn down. Quoted for and ordered new CASING ASSEMBLY PUMP/WASH MOTOR. ; ordrd 1 ABT72989206 (Casing assembly pump wash motor)

"Customer complaint is, THUMPING/KNOCKING NOISE. Inspected and tested. Found the left rear roller has slid back on the bushing causing the drum to ride to far forward and rubbing on the seal cutting it. Dryer needs a new front seal and roller kit. Parts on order. ; ordrd 1 D510207P (Front seal) and 1 RB170002 (Roller kit)"

"Oven will preheat but not maintain temperature. Also upper right burner element not getting hot but customer said not to give a quote on that as well. When first turning oven the bake element will get hot but then after preheat the bake element will not get power and not cycle heat back on. burn spot on board, needs control board but also quote for upper right element as well.Control board shows not in stock. Find part and quote customer.Control board 316560127; element 318178110; saved tckt"

"Right front burner doesnt spark at all. Told customer it most likely needs a new spark module. I took the cook top apart and swapped the wires at the spark module terminals for the two front burners, and then the left one didnt work but the right did. So it does indeed need a new spark module. 268600001 per encompass. DW CAN YOU PLEASE ORDER THIS AND SCHEDULE RETURN VISIT? ; saved tckt , states that autho needed"

"Not running. Found the bulkhead full of lint and debris. I cleaned that out, vacuumed out dryer, and installed two new bearing glides. Old glides were worn down. Runs great now.

"Customer complaint is, NOT KEEPING TEMP. Customer said its 20F-30F off on the cool side. I pulled out range and ohmed out the sensor and its good at 1072 ohms. I preheated oven and watched it cycle and its cycling perfectly between 330F and 370F for about 30 minutes. The temperature gauge thats in there is responding slowly, but eventually got to 350F. Thats what they were going off of. I showed customer his gauge and mine after 30 minutes and they were reading 350F. Range is operating and testing perfectly."

Customer states that when she sets oven for 320 which is the lowest it goes she said it never gets up to that temperature.This model doesnt use glow igniter and has a hold down and spark for 5 seconds until oven is lit and thermostat will adjust the always on flame but will just lower or incase flame on bake burner tube. While temperatures 350 and higher has full flame until desired temperature then lowers the flame to low and then will incase flame when cycling temperature. Flame never turns off after the initial ignition.Based on that any temperatures lower than 350 the oven just uses a low flame so it will probably take 40 minutes to reach the 320 temperature.Its similar to a cabin range and can be lit with match for the oven to work if there is no electricity.I explained this to customer. And the expectation of how this oven works.Oven is working as manufacture designed as im here.

Installed part from last diagnosis. Once installed test and now unit is working properly.

Opened up the machine and pulled out the old anti return valve. The weight inside the valve was definitely stuck and not able to move like it should. Replaced it with the new valve and put the filter back in place. Filled and drained a couple times to test it and did not hear the same rattling noise as before. Much better sounds great.

The ice maker does not make ice. I jumped t and h and it would not fill. I jumped l and v and it sparked. I found the contacts on the module bad and the fill valve solenoid is open. It needs the whole kit. I went to Sundberg and got the whole kit then replaced the ice maker and water valve. I cycled the ice maker and now it fills.

"Returned with parts, installed drip pan, removed the cover and installed new fan motor. Working great.

Customers complaint is back of valve is broken where the hot water connects. installed part tested and unit is working properly now.

"Customers complained is getting the F12 error code. Customer said they were out of town for five weeks came back and this was happening. Remove filter and notice some buildup of slime from the soap. Vacuumed out the water, wiped everything down and steamed the inside of the unit and cleaned out pressure sensor reassembled and everything is working properly.

The heating element was broken. I replaced the heating element and verified its not leaking.

"It is stopping in the cycle and not draining on its own. They said its done this twice since I was here. The two times they tried using it. I needed to get an error code, which was only possible by running it on the cycle they had it on. I kept it on that cycle (warm, large, heavy duty) and ran it. It went all the way through the cycle with no issues. Was here with it for an hour. It fills, agitates, drains, fills, rinses, drains and spins great. I asked them to take a video of the flashing lights on the display next time this happens."

"Customer said dishwasher would sometimes get E01 error or that she would have a hard time to start a cycle. According to manual once you power on dishwasher you can change cycles/options but if door is not closed within 5 seconds the display will shut off and options/display will need to be selected again. Once cycle starts you cannot change options but display will still shut off after 5 seconds of door opening and will need to power back on and it will pick up where it left off, otherwise you need to push and hold button 3 seconds to cancel cycle to change options.I showed customer how to work it and check for display otherwise the dishwasher will not respond.Dishwasher drains every time and soap dispenser opens. Tested cycles all functions are working good. Dishwasher is working to manufacture specs and design as im here."

"Replaced bad sump assembly. Runs great now. Did notice a humming sound when detergent module opened. Customer stated that started 2 or 3 months ago. I tried to get it to stop but it doesnt. Eventually it may die. They would like to continue to use as is and if it dies in the future, they will put pods directly into dishwasher."

"Remove broken glass vacuumed up all the glass also lay down protective blanket, so no glass got out on the floor. Installed the new glass and now unit is back to original condition."

Customer had 1E error flashing on display but fridge still cooling and working. I power cycled fridge and error did not come back and refrigerator was cooling and all functions are working. Based on that error the sensor is out of range. Sensor ohm in range when testing.I informed customer that it could of been a power surge but if the error keeps coming back that the sensor would need to be replaced.

"Customer complaint is, NOT CLEANING DISHES PROPERLY. Tenant said its not cleaning well and leaving white spots on dishes. Inspected and tested. This dishwasher is brand new. Dishwasher is clean on the inside and sump is also clean. I ran dishwasher through test mode and there's no stored errors and there's good water pressure and heater came on and was drawing over 7amps. Dishwasher is operating and testing perfectly. Theres nothing different I can do to make this work any better. I did notice the incoming water was cold when it filled in test mode, so I filled dishwasher again and it took 5 times of filling before the water got warm, and then I ran water at the sink for over a minute before it got somewhat hot, but still not great. I advised customer to run the water at the sink until it gets hot before starting dishwasher. This should help with the cleaning. Tenant said their water is not very hot and it takes like 7 minutes for the shower to get hot. I talked to Wil and explained what I found and that its a water temperature issue."

Customer says it starts to flood really fast as soon as any water starts flowing into the machine. Lifted up the machine and checked the bottom. Discovered the drain hose connecting to the tub head come off. Replace the hose and put on new hose clamps to keep it in place securely tested with a fill. Seems to be not leaking and looks great.

The dishwasher will not drain. When the drain pump starts a makes a humming sound but the impeller will not spin. I removed the drain pump and found a rubber seal wrapped around the impeller. The seal is not from the dishwasher. It must be from a sports bottle or something. The dishwasher drain good now.

The dishwasher does not dry the dishes and gives the e09 heating error. I pulled the dishwasher out and tested the heater. The heater in the pump was bad. I quoted the the customer for the heat pump. I replaced the heat pump and then ran the dishwasher. I found not leaks and it working good now.

"Returned, got unit down, disassembled replaced the belt and motor. Checked all drum rollers and bearings making sure they were not damaged or stuck. Reassembled, cycled and tested out, put unit back."

The customer complaint is the fresh food does not cool as well but the bottom half is very cold and there is a loud noise. The noise stops when the door is opened and starts when the food is closed. The fan runs when the door is closed and stops when the door is opened. I removed the evaporator cover and found ice forming around the evaporator fan blade and the fan blade was hitting the ice. Water is dripping down from the ice maker fill tube when it fills the ice maker with water. I put a rubber tube around the ice fill pipe and then a zip tie around that to hold it in place. I advised the customer to give it 24 hours for the temps to recover.

"Returned, customer said the fresh food compartment is freezing up. Removed the shelfs had to steam the back cover to get it off, got it off and found all the wires plugged in, removed all the wires and plugged back in. Unplugged unit and waited a min, plugged back in and the codes went away."

Replaced the water valve and tested seems to be working a lot better now.

"Complaint is sounds like something is rubbing while its running or making noise while its running, he thinks its coming from the top rack. Ran unit multiple times with nothing in it and no noise whatsoever sounded good. Unit is not leveled. Re-leveled unit and re-mounted properly. Had customer fill unit to see if it would make the noise customer had a little bit of noise happening, looked inside and found one of the pots was rubbing the spray arm cause it was sitting through one of the holes Removed and repositioned pan and now unit is operating correctly. It might just be getting loaded unproperly and making a noise because everything mechanically is running properly."

"Customer complaint is, STOPPED WORKING. Error tE1. Inspected and tested. Thermistor, thermostat and fuses all test good. Customer approved repair. Installed thermistor kit and tested. Installed new board and tested. Dryer is working great. Dryer is now fixed."

"Replaced user interface board, tested and all functions are working and no phantom beeps as im here. Washer is working good."

"Customer complaint is, ICE MAKER NOT WORKING. Inspected and tested. Found when the water is turned on to the refrigerator, water is constantly flowing into the ice maker. The valve has failed. Installed new water valve and tested. Ice maker cycled and filled with water and is not leaking into the ice maker anymore. Ice maker is now fixed.

The complaint is the fresh food is warm but the freezer is ok. I found the fresh food temp was over 40 degrees and the freezer is around 0. I verified the fresh food damper does open and the fan does come on and blow air into the fresh food compartment. I checked for faults and there are none. I reset the board.

"Customer complaint is, HEAT NOT WORKING - DOES NOT HEAT UP. Inspected and tested. Found the heating element is burnt out, the belt is shredding and the idler pulley is seizing up. Customer approved repairs. Installed new heating element, idler pulley and belt. Tested and dryer is heating great. Dryer is now fixed.

"The complaint is the dryer does not start and wont tumble or anything. I found the belt was broken. I removed the drum and found the front and rear rollers are not turning. I quoted for the belt and roller kit. I cleaned and oiled the shafts and installed all the new rollers and idler and then replaced the belt. The dryer now runs and heats.

"After oven preheated and attempting to reignite the bake igniter can hear spark but did not ignite. Found that the oven has been dropped at one point as the cavity is bent and the gas valve that inserts into the bake element was bent and barely inserted into bake tube. I bent valve back and is now fully seated. Also bent the igniter so I had to replace that. Replaced igniter, tested and oven is reached temp and is cycling heat on and off normally and keeping at correct temperature.Oven is heating and working good.

"On arrival, I went ahead and installed the pump and motor. Machine was still not working. Discovered that the start call for the motor was not getting power. Inspected the contacts and a timer. It looked like they were burned up pretty bad. Went ahead and got a timer from Sunberg and came back with it.installed the motor and reinstalled the original motor. Installed the new timer. Put everything back together. It is not working correctly and everything looks and sounds great.

Disassembled the door and replaced the frame. Tested the door swing and made sure that it was able to latch and start correctly. Looks good now everything is running great.

Customer states the unit was get a code LE.Ran unit on the diagnostic mode found the spin cycle seemed slow. Ran unit empty on normal cycle. Customer said it now is working fine. Suggested to him the hall switch maybe going out. He approved the repair. Replaced the Hall switch. Cycled and tested. Unit running as it should.

Replaced the drain pump with the new part. Pulled both side panels off the machine and hooked it up while it was still sitting in front of the cabinets. Ran it for about 15 minutes looking for leaks and I didnt see any other additional leaks after the new drain pump had been installed. Everything seems to be running fine. Reinstalled the dishwasher for the customer. Tested it in place and it seemed to good as well.

Returned with parts. Disassembled unit installed new timer and cube size control. Plugged in unit. The unit started up. ; states that autho needed

"When the washer spin its loud and doesnt matter is it has a load or not. Its worse with a load but still makes noise without. I removed the hub and basket and the seal looks fine. The noise is definitely coming from a bearing. The speed rams up and down. The drive control should be order to have image its not working right. I listed all the parts it will need. I advised the customer we will submit this to speed queen then let her know when we do. Allow 3 hours on return. Tub kit 204383Lower bearing kit 39253Drive bell seal 205061Hub kit 766P3ADrive control 203612; snapped 1 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"Customer was getting a F7E1 code.Ran diagnostics confirmed the code code, tested the wires on the main board. Checked the wiring on the shift actuator found no issues, customer approved the replacement of the actuator ; ordrd 1 W11481722 (Shift actuator)"

"A few of the buttons on the label dont respond and the broil element stays on after the preheat. The oven heated up in about 6 minutes and the broil was on after preheat was reached and stayed on in bake until I turned it off. It needs the control panel and main board. I was unable to find them in stock using my parts help. The customer would like someone to look up the parts and if not available please let them know. Parts listed Control panel WP74005749Clock with harness WP74009320; snapped 2 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"Customer complaint is, OVEN TURNS ON BUT DOES NOT HEAT. ALREADY REPLACED TEMPERATURE SENSOR. Inspected and tested. Found the red L2 wire was melted at the connector. Customer okayed me cutting wires and rewiring. I cut out the melted wires and reconnected outside the connector. Tested and still no heat. I found the relay on the board has failed and is not turning power on to the elements. Quoted customer $640. to install new board. Customer approved repairs. Part on order. Please schedule me 2 hours. ; ordrd 1 WB27T10914 (CONTROL BOARD - MAIN, SIGNAL, TEXT, TOUCH, ETC.)"

"Customer ice maker not working. Customer says it keeps on frosting up and gets stuck then they have to defrost it and Ill start working. Its been acting like this for a long time. Unit has never had the icemaker kit installed. Needs the new icemaker kit to resolve this issue for the bluebook for repair, customer approved. Ordered part and rescheduled.; ordrng 1 DA82-02695A (I/M ICEMAKER)"

Compressor not running found that the compressor inverter control board board is bad. Getting power to inverter but not to compressor. Customer approved estimate and wants to pay for overnight shipping. Scheduling for Tuesday.; ordrd 1 5970511500 (INVERTER BOARD)

"Customer said the refrigerator fresh food section was warm, the freezer is ok.Removed the shelf and cover from the freezer and found the drain was plugged, steamed out the unit. Found the fan was intermittently turning, the fan will turn if you push it other wise it sits still. After cleaning out the ice checked the drain and pan found the pan was cracked and leaking water. Customer approved the repair, Ordered new fan motor, fan blade, and pan. ; ordrd 1 WP2315539 (Fan motor) and 1 WP2163777 (Fan blade) and 1 WP2254574 (Drip pan)"

"Customer said oven making whoosh sound and bang as it oven turns on and throughout the cycle. Can smell gas as it is happening. I checked amp dray of igniter and seems ok but replaced anyways and first time it ignited was fine but then next time the burner has big flame on burner and had strong gas smell.Appears that gas valve or regulator on oven is not regulating correctly.Looking up parts i see the gas valve for bake,broil but not sure if there is a gas regulator built in? Because i informed customer that if the house gas regulator could be bad that would also cause this issue.Could you double check for me about gas valve or regulator. Either way part is not in stock and customer wants to proceed to get it replaced.Range gas valve WB19K10079 - i did replace igniter as well 5303935066; saved tckt"

"The unit would not run due to a bad lid switch. To correct this, I replaced the lid lock switch with a brand new kit. After testing the cycles and drain spin, there were no issues.

Installed parts from last diagnosis once it was installed tested everything is working properl.

"Installed a brand new ice maker. After testing the cycle, it fills properly and works great.

"The customer complaint is some of the foods like eggs, sour cream, carrots freeze. I hooked up the newfi tool. The only active fault was for the fresh food evaporator abnormal defrosting. It has extended the defrost time more than 5 times. There was a fresh food door open for more than 15 inactive code. That was from 26 days ago. They said it has been acting up for about 2 to 4 weeks. I ran the fans and all the heaters. The evaporator is not frosted up and the fresh food fan is working properly. I did find some ice around the fan. I cleared the ice. When the compressor starts it does make a loud bang. The customer said he has noticed that noise for a while now. I cleared the codes and checked for any updates. I found not service bulletins and not firmware updates needed. The fridge is a 23 cubic and its a little over packed. There is several packages of food against the side and back walls. I explained about air flow and how poor air flow can cause random items to freezer. Especially items with little sugar and lots of moisture in them."

"Customer stated the unit was not drying.Disassembled found the heat element was not working. Customer approved new heat element. Installed cycled and tested, unit is heating as it should"

"Not draining. I cleaned out drain line and where drain line connects to plumbing. Totally clean. Then I ran it again and noticed a crackling sound in drain pump. Took apart drain pump and found a broken piece of hard plastic. Removed all debris from drain pump and then ran it again a couple times, but didnt drain very well. I also looped up the drain line to help prevent back flow. Found a broken drain pump. Replaced, and now it drains great.

"Returned with part, disassembled unit, installed new door seal, cycled and tested.

Install new bearing kit from last diagnosis. Repair went really smoothly. After putting diagnosis mode make sure it was spinning and everything told customer wait 24 hours before use unit is working proper.

"Customer states there was a burning smell.Disassembled the back of the dryer cleaned out vents that were full of debris, made sure the heater and housing was cleaned out. Reassembled and cycled and tested the heater cycled like it should the unit was very loud, removed the front cover and drum found rollers were worn and one had rubber peeling off the wheel. Quoted the customer new wheels. Customer approved- replaced the wheels. Checked the speed on the outside vent speed was 19.1 mph, unit operating as it should"

Not running. Gives a motor error. Replaced bad motor control board. Now it runs great.

"Oven trips breaker for bake. I found a bad igniter. Replaced igniter, now it doesnt trip breaker and heats great.

Replaced thermistor and vent cover. Customer has not gotten vent clean but had someone coming out later today. Tested and dryer itself is heating and working good. Once vent is clean dryer will be working good.

"The dryer was not heating. I tested the heater and the heater is bad. I quoted for the repair. I oiled the rollers, vacuumed out the whole dryer and relayed the heater assembly. The dryer heats good and the air flow outside is good.

The dryer is no longer heating. I verified the dryer is getting 240 volts. I removed back and tested the heating element. I found the element is bad. I replaced the heater element and hooked the dryer back up. The air flow is good and its heating good.

"Light only comes on if you flick the button on the side (door switch). I pulled the switch out, it was sparking inside. Replaced switch, works great now.

Customers complaint top oven not working. Verified complaint. Top oven wont bake or broil. Disassembled to get to board. Removed relay board and found a bad relay for the top oven. They approved the repair. Installed new relay. Reassembled unit. Tested and now top oven is working properly.

The fresh food ice maker was not making ice. The ice maker had a bad thermistor fault code. I replaced the ice maker and then reset the power. I advised the customer to give it 24 hours to make ice.

The left hinge thats a part of the tub assembly broke off. Ive never seen that before. Best educated guess is it came compromised from the factory. Normally those welded bolts do not break off. Non repairable since you have to replace the entire tub assembly.

The compressor has failed. Today I replaced the compressor and filter. I leaked checked the joints and purged with nitrogen. I pulled a vacuum and then recharged the system. The pressures look good. The fridge is in the garage so I advised the customer to give it 24 hours to cool.

"Customer complaint is not operating now. After making bunch of noise. Just assembled the unit. Found the back roller completely gone and the idler pulley destroyed. All our rollers seem good. Quoted customer bluebook installed new parts cleaned up all rollers, cleaned out the blower wheel and Reassembled with new parts in. way better and is operating correctly

"Customer complaint: The oven takes longer to heat up than usual. To address this, I installed a new igniter. After testing a cycle, the oven heats up quickly with no issues. Additionally, I took readings and confirmed that it reaches 350?F, working great.

Customers complaint is no heat. Verified complaint unit is tumbling but no heat on either settings. Look through the people to watch the igniter. Never started to glow remove the back cover tested the thermostat that was bad and quoted customer bluebook customer approved installed part tested working properly. The dryer vent is very short so Ill make sure it was all cleared. Everything is cleared and good airflow.

Replaced timer and thermostats. Tested on auto dry and timer is advancing past where customer said to was stuck at. Dryer is cycling heat normally and is working good.

"Customers complaint is getting in the F 12 code, which is the water error code. Verified. The water is connected on disconnected water. Turned it back on not getting any pressure. There was a extension piece removed that now Im getting water and I found a bunch of little debris. Log in the filter. Cleared it all out now its working the house is under construction right now and project manager explained they had the water shut off and turn back on and then this happened. So I showed him and explained what I did so if it happens again, they could always clear it themselves to. Tested unit afterward its working properly. Also had to re-level it a little bit and now its good."

The customer complaint was when they bake there is a gas smell from the oven. When I arrived the customer had told me yesterday he looked in the oven and noticed there is a mat on the bottom of the oven and it was covering the bottom vents. I explained why they should not use that mat at all and they should not use anything that can cover the vents. When the vents are covered they will starve the burner for air and that can cause the gas smell and it to produce CO. We removed the mat and ran the bake. The oven smelled normal and no issues found.

"Found that the float nut assembly was loose and due to water marks. Also found that that there was a lot of soap suds that could also cause leaks from float. I tightened float nut and ran test and no leaks. Could of been from too much suds, I recommended to use finish dishwasher soap to reduce suds.I did quote for new float nut and grommet. Customer will change soap and use as normal and call back if still leaks and needs parts replaced."

"Dryer not drying well. I ran it on a timed dry and found that it heats up to 140. After cleaning vent it runs at 180. Heats great. Did a vent cleaning for free. Found bad rollers and a bad belt. Replaced those. Runs great now.

"Upon arrival, customer said it would occasionally start dripping into the fridge section and make a mess. Open it up and saw moisture and frost on the back of the fresh food section ceiling. Had customer empty out the freezer section pulled off evaporator fan, cover and defrosted a fully frozen up defrost drain. Also made sure to defrost the ceiling of the refrigerator and the drain going all the way down. Check the defrost. Drain to make sure it was draining properly. Put machine back together and tried to dry everything up. Told the customer that it was gonna probably drip for a little bit longer. But everything looks like it should be good from here on out"

"Was making a rubbing kind of clicking noise when the drum would spin, and there was no heat. If there was heat, it would go away. Opened up machine and discovered a grayish waxy kind of plastic substance smeared on the rear bulkhead right along the drum seal. Used the wire brush to scrub all of it off. Put the machine back together and it sounds a whole lot better now."

"Customer states that it takes a long time to ignite sometimes takes almost an hour to preheat, and will occasionally make a washing sound. Opened up machine and inspected the igniter, and it appeared to be weak. Replace the igniter. Reassembled the machine and tested. Bakes a lot better at this time

"Returned, checked the ice maker, pushed in both door switches. The harvester turned. Did a live stream with Jared. Suspect the issue is the bailing arm. Jared got ahold of Sub Zero. It was confirmed that a different arm was needed. Part is on orfer; snapped 1 QuickPics, states that autho needed"

"Not cooling in fresh food or freezer section. Compressor hot and can tell it was running, zero frost on evaporator. All fans running. Condenser line is cool. Couldnt get a read on the amp draw because compressor stopped running probably right before I could get it, I waited for awhile, but it didnt come back on. Please call Rita with a quote for sealed system work. I plugged in a hard start to it and it draws 8.66 amps but compressor doesnt start. ; saved tckt"

"Customer had an error code for no fill, and stated that no water was going into the machine. Checked the fill lines and the filter screens to make sure that they werent clogged. Checked valves to make sure theyre getting power. They are getting power but they were not opening and so the valve itself will need to be replaced. ; ordrd 1 203741 (Water valve)"

"It wasnt making ice or dispensing water. Maintenance pulled fridge out and turned on water, and then they noticed a puddle of water under the back left corner. I turned on the water and we dispensed a number of cups of water and there were no leaks from the lines or the valve. We also cycled the icemaker and it filled perfectly and no leaks. Everything checks out good. Dispenser and icemaker work. No leaks."

"The dryer was not heating at all. Upon inspection I found the rear high limit fuse was popped. I gave the customer a quote for the fuse and replaced the fuse. The dryer was disconnected from the vent when I arrived so I pushed it back, but left it how I found it. I advise the customer to make sure the dryer duct is clean, because that could be causing the fuse to pop. The dryer is heating up good now.

Unit works great. no issues and cycles good. Drains with no leaks.

Customer said it was making a metal and metal rattling sound during spin. Random machine and didnt hear anything out of the normal at this time. Took the front apart just to double check and took the front tub cover off and looked for any screws or anything that could be rubbing.didnt find anything. Instructed customer on normal sound of the balance ring. Customer says they will take a video if they hear the sound that they were hearing again.

"Upon further inspection found that it was the timer and not the motor. Replaced timer, tested and washer is now agitating and spinning. Washer is working good."

The dryer was not spitting out all the water from the clothes. I found the washer was going off balance and then I found the drive hub is stripped so the tub was not spinning. Quote of the customer for the new hub drive and then replaced the part. I ran The calibration cycle and made sure its spinning properly.

This is a dual fuel range. The complaint is the oven does not maintain the temp and food is not cooking like it should. I set the oven to 350 and put my weighted thermal couple on the center rack in the middle. I let preheat for 20 minutes until it indicated it was ready. The high preheat temp was around 420 degrees. I opened the door for 10 seconds. The temp dropped down to 360. I waited until the temp dropped to 345 then it started to heat back up. The temp then got to 380 for the high. I recorded 2 more temps. I got an average temp of 368 from 4 temperature readings. Im finding no issues today other than its running hot. I advised them to cook pies and cakes and most bake goods in the center of the oven. I checked and there are no bulletins related to this issue. I did lower the temp by 10 degrees. I also found when I was done that the door was opening easily and the light was coming on. The customer then told me when she turns the light on it will shut off on its own. I noticed if I press the button to turn the light on then open and close the door the light shuts off. I opened the door and found it drops below 90 degrees. Informed customer.

The dishwasher was filling with water and pumping but then seem to not have enough water in it. I took the sump apart and made sure it was clean. I tried a few more times and it seemed better. No fault codes.

"Customer complaint is, NOT DRAINING. Inspected and tested. Found the drain hose is plugged with grease. I opened it up and filled and drained dishwasher 4 different times and its draining great. I recommend customer run a cleaner through the dishwasher before using. Dishwasher is working great."

"Customer complaint is, LEAKING. Inspected and tested. FF temperature is 36F and freezer is -3. Found the evaporator drain was plugged/frozen. I defrosted freezer and drain pan and steamed out drain. She approved repairs. Installed new heat probe and tested. Drain is open. Refrigerator is now fixed.

The upper rack adjusters and the right rail was broken. I quoted for both adjusters and rails. I went to Dey and got the parts. I came back and replaced all 4 parts. The upper rack rolls in and out good now.

Replaced bad main pcb and UI. Runs great now.

Replaced bad board. Now it doesnt run automatically when you plug it in. Runs great.

Customers complaint is not able to use any of the food settings on the microwave- gives the error code which is for the humidity sensor. We had been able to pre-order the humidity sensor. installed part tested working properly.

The old bake element was charred at the terminals. I cut off the bad terminals and installed the new bake element kit. Now it heats great and no fireworks in the back of the oven on bake.

"Customer states the unit wont advance to spin cycle. Ran unit on Normal the unit started filling fine, then it stopped could hear buzzing. Went into diagnostics mode checked codes.One code was for long drain, another code was for unbalanced, last code for long fill. Tested the door lock, it tests as it should Tested the drain and the unit drained fine Tested and found the hot water turned off. Ran the calibration mode and calibrated the washer. Customer had hot water turned off for a small leak on the sink in the basement. Customer is going to try and repair leak, is aware having the water turned off will affect the washing machine."

"Water/conde station runs down sides of the dishwasher at the end of the cycle. Called tech support. Discovered that the sound dampening strips had been installed on the front, and not the sides like theyre supposed to. This stopped the door from closing all the way. Per Beko, I cut slits in the sides of the strips to allow screws to go through to the cabinet. Attached the strips on the sides and remounted. Now no water leaks down the sides and steam doesnt escape out."